Life in SW France

This is a beautiful, sweet and peaceful region, of rolling hills and oak woods, yet still, it is full of history, mystery and a vibrant local culture. It is a land of fruit growing and vineyards, of wide rivers and dramatic bastide towns, perched defensively on the tops of the hills. The air is fresh and unpolluted, and visitors often draw a deep breath to fill their lungs and comment on how fantastic it is to taste pure, fresh air. Sunrises and sunsets are spectacular, particularly in the winter. From the top of our field, on rain-washed mornings or crisp frosty days, we can sometimes make out the high ridge of the Pyrenees, two hundred kilometres away. There is little light pollution, and the night skies are sometimes so clear that, even with the naked eye, you can see at least three levels of the firmament. This is where I write.

This is the area where two great rivers, the Tarn and the Garonne converge and give the region its name. In the past, this offered a means of transporting the produce from the fields and orchards to Bordeaux, and the wines further still. The sweet Chasselas wine was a favourite in Paris and in England as far back as the 16th century. The Canal des Deux Mers slices through a corner of the region and provides superb opportunities for boating, and cycling along the towpaths.

Now, it is a peaceful region, but the fortified towns, the bastides, tell a story of violence, of endless wars and conflicts between religions. The Hundred Years War between England and France was fought over this land; the Wars of Religion tore communities apart and set neighbouring towns one against the other. Many of the old villages and the ancient towns from this period are wonderfully preserved. In our local village square, we walk under the 13th-century arcades to reach the boulangerie, the post office, the hairdresser and the café. The horrors of the 20th century visited this region, and tales of great heroism and despicable collaboration are still remembered. This is where stories come from.

If it's food you crave, then wander through the markets in Auvillar, Moissac, Valence D'Agen, Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val and many others. Visit the truffle markets in the winter. This is a region rich in gastronomy, fruit, robust cheeses from the Causses, and always fine wines to wash it down. In July and August, there are night markets in nearly every town, where friends and families come to sit at benches around the square and eat, drink, dance and enjoy the warmth of the summer evening. This is a good place to live and to write books.